Crochet The Rose Petal Jumper
Crochet The Rose Petal Jumper
Hi everyone, this week I am bringing to you The Rose Petal Jumper crochet tutorial. It is a super easy crochet project. I am so excited to be bringing this sweater tutorial to you, as I have had a vision for this jumper many weeks ago. To be honest, I am so happy with how it has turned out!
The video tutorial can be found here for this project: Crochet The Rose Petal Jumper Video Tutorial
The Rose Petal jumper is such a beautiful and easy crochet piece to make. I had been wanting to create a chunky and cosy sweater for a long time, and it is finally here!
Crochet The Rose Petal Jumper: the inspiration
As I mentioned earlier, I had been wanting to crochet a super chunky jumper for a long time. I finally found the inspiration to do so when I spotted Sirdar’s new super chunky yarn, called Adventure. It is the perfect mix of 80% acrylic, and 20% wool. It is therefore super chunky with that woolly vibe that looks so cool. However, it is not too warm a garment either, which makes it perfect for this weather.
I chose the colour “Polar” as I do love this cream and lovely colour. I only used 4 skeins of this yarn for size S, so it has proved to be quite economical too for a super chunky jumper.
This yarn can be replaced by any super chunky yarn of your preference. You could use Wool and the Gang’s Crazy Sexy Wool for instance, or any other super chunky wool that you like.
For the edging, I wanted a soft, pastel colour. Unfortunately, those colours are not available in the Sirdar Adventure colour palette. So I switched yarns and went for King Cole’s Timeless Super Chunky in shade “Rose Petal”. This yarn is so soft and beautiful! The perfect yarn for a crochet garment. However, it is a little less “chunky” than Sirdar Adventure. This suited me fine as I wanted the collar, cuffs and bottom edgings to be more defined with “tighter” stitches. I also switched hook size for this part of the project, going from a 12 mm hook to a 10 mm hook. And the result is perfect! I love how delicate and soft this sweater looks, the perfect feminine accessory for those cold winter days.
Crochet The Rose Petal Jumper: the design
This lovely super chunky jumper has a very simple design. Beginners and crochet experts alike can follow along this project very easily. It really is very simple in both it’s structure and stitches.
The front and back panels are identical, for ease of construction. The sleeves, which are later added, are created using the exact same base chain number as the front and back panel.
A simple double crochet repeat is then used to create the body of the jumper. After the front and back panels, as well as the sleeves, are stitched together, the pink edging is then added. The edging is added firstly to the collar, then the sleeves, and then the bottom of the jumper.
Both the sleeve and bottom edgings are created with an alternation of front and back post double crochets. This is what creates the beautiful ribbed effect of this jumper.
The contrast between the two yarns and colours give this crochet project a lot of dimension. It makes it look soft and very feminine. I absolutely love how this project turned out! It may even have turned out better than I wanted it too, and I feel very happy with this design.
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Crochet The Rose Petal Jumper: the pattern
You can purchase the ad free, large print PDF pattern for this project from my Etsy store: Crochet The Rose Petal Jumper PDF Pattern
This really helps support my small business, and I truly appreciate it.
The Rose Petal Jumper
Level: Easy +
Notes: I will be writing in US terms
Materials
4 (S, M), 5 (L, XL), 6 (XXL, XXXL) skeins of Sirdar Adventure in shade Polar, or any other super chunky yarn of your preference (Crazy Sexy Wool by Wool and The Gang is a great substitute). This type of super chunky yarn will require a 12 mm crochet hook.
2 (S, M, XL), 3 (XXL, XXXL) skeins of King Cole Timeless Super Chunky yarn in shade Rose Petal, or any other super chunky yarn which require a 10 mm crochet hook.
A 10 and 12 mm crochet hook
A tapestry needle
A pair of scissors
Gauge
4” (10 cm) = 6 DC
4” (10 cm) = 3 rows
Sizes of finished jumper
These are the measurements taken once the jumper has been assembled and all edgings and borders have been added. Size of sleeves given once they have been sewed onto project and edging added.
Size S
Body of jumper: 22” (56 cm) in length x 19” (48 cm) large
Sleeves: 18” (46 cm) in length x 8,5” (22 cm) large
Size M
Body of jumper: 23” (59 cm) in length x 21” (53 cm) large
Sleeves: 18” (46 cm) in length x 9,5 (24 cm) large
Size L
Body of jumper: 24” (61 cm) in length x 23” (59,5 cm) large
Sleeves: 18” (46 cm) in length x 10,5 (27 cm) large
Size XL
Body of jumper: 25” (64,5 cm) in length x 25” (64,5 cm) large
Sleeves: 19” (49,5 cm) in length x 11,5” (30,5 cm) large
Size XXL
Body of jumper: 26” (66 cm) in length x 27” (69 cm) large
Sleeves: 19” (49,5 cm) in length x 12,5” (32 cm) large
Size XXXL
Body of jumper: 27”(69,5 cm) in length x 29” (74 cm) large
Sleeves: 19” (49,5 cm) in length x 13,5” (35,5 cm) large
Abbreviations
ch: chain
sk: skip
SP: space
SC: Single Crochet (= UK Double Crochet)
DC: Double Crochet (=UK Treble Crochet)
FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet
BPDC: Back Post Double Crochet
Sl st: Slip stitch
EOR: End of row
Sizes will be indicated like this
S, (M), [L], {XL}, *XXL*, XXXL
Pattern begins here
The front and back of jumper are identical. Use 12 mm crochet hook for this part, and Sirdar Adventure yarn.
Front and back of jumper (=make 2 identical panels)
Ch 31 (34) [37] {40} *43* 46
Complete rows as follows:
1: DC in 4th ch from hook, and into each ch across until eor
2: Ch 3 (counts as DC throughout), DC in 2nd and every DC from previous row until eor
3-13 (14) [15] {16} *17* 18: repeat row 2
14 (15) [16] {17} *18* 19: Ch 3 (counts as a DC), DC in next 5 DC from previous row (=6 DC)
15 (16) [17] {18} *19* 20: repeat previous row
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Attach yarn to other side of panel:
14 (15) [16] {17} *18* 19: Ch 3 (counts as a DC), DC in next 5 DC from previous row (=6 DC)
15 (16) [17] {18} *19* 20: repeat previous row
Sleeves (make 2)
Use 12 mm crochet hook for this part, and Sirdar Adventure yarn.
Ch 31 (34) [37] {40} *43* 46
Complete rows as follows:
1: DC in 4th ch from hook, and into each ch across until eor
2: Ch 3 (counts as DC throughout), DC in 2nd and every DC from previous row until eor
3-12 (13) [14] {15} *16* 17: repeat row 2
Once you have these 4 elements, you can start assembling your jumper together.
Assembling your jumper together
With wrong side facing, place all the parts of your jumper onto a flat surface.
Start by folding sleeves in half, and seaming the sleeves together, using tapestry needle and loose end.
Pop your sleeves to one side.
Now sew the shoulder seams at the top of the jumper, using the mattress stitch.
Then attach sleeves to each side of jumper, sew sleeves from the top of project, working all the way down to the bottom of the jumper. You can then sew the “back” side of the sleeve to the back side of the jumper. This creates a more seamless stitching.
Do this on both sides of the jumper for each sleeve and side of jumper.
Fasten off, tidy up all loose ends.
Neck edging
Use 10 mm crochet hook for this part, and King Cole Timeless super chunky yarn.
Fasten on yarn to any stitch on the neck edging (preferably to the side of the neck edging).
Compete rounds as follows:
1: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch); SC into each stitch across, making sure you space your SC equally when you reach the “sleeve part” at the top of the neck edging, as there will not be clear stitches on those parts. Sl st to ch 1 at beginning of round.
2: ch 1, SC into each SC from the previous row. Sl st to ch 1 from previous row.
3: ch 1, SC into each SC from previous row, until you reach the sleeve part of the neck edging. You will be placing 2 decrease stitches on both sides of the neck edging, to tighten your project. The exact location of those stitches isn’t important, however it is best if you place 2×2 decrease SC on both sides of the neck edging (ie not the front or back).
To make a decrease SC: Place yarn directly into stitch, pull up a loop, do not finish SC, but instead, go directly into the next stitch, pull up a loop, and finally go through all 3 loos. Repeat this twice on each side of the neck edging.
Once you have placed your 2 decrease SC, carry on just placing SC all the way along this row, until you reach the other side of the neck edging, and you will proceed to repeat this step, and therefore place 2 decrease SC once again. You will then carry on placing normal SC until you reach the ch 1 from the beginning, and slip stitch to close this round off.
Fasten off, tidy up all loose ends.
Sleeve cuffs
Repeat this process on each sleeve, using 10 mm crochet hook and King Cole Timeless chunky.
Front Post Double Crochet: Wrap yarn around your hook, insert hook around the DC from previous row going from right to left in the front of stitch; pull up a loop, go through 2 loops, pull up a loop, go through 2 loops.
Back Post Double Crochet: Wrap yarn around your hook, insert hook around the DC from previous row going from right to left from the back of the stitch; pull up a loop, go through 2 loops, pull up a loop, go through 2 loops.
Attach yarn to cuff.
Complete rows as follows:
1: Ch 3 (counts as a DC), place a DC into next stitch until eor. Sl st to 1st ch 3 at beginning of row.
2: Ch 3 (counts as a BPDC), [Front Post Double Crochet into the next DC from previous row, Back Post Double Crochet into next stitch] until you reach the first ch 3, sl st to 1st ch 3 to close off round.
3: Ch 3 (counts as FPDC), [Back Post Double Crochet into the Front Post Double Crochet from previous row, Front Post Double Crochet into the Back Post Double Crochet from previous row] until eor. Therefore you will be alternating FPDC and BPDC from row to row, creating a ribbed effect.
Sl st to 1st ch 3 to close off round.
4: repeat row 2.
Fasten off, tidy up all loose ends.
Bottom edging
Attach yarn to the bottom edging of the jumper.
Complete rows as follows:
1: Ch 3 (counts as a DC), place a DC into next stitch until eor. Sl st to 1st ch 3 at beginning of row.
2: Ch 3 (counts as a BPDC), [Front Post Double Crochet into the next DC from previous row, Back Post Double Crochet into next stitch] until you reach the first ch 3, sl st to 1st ch 3 to close off round.
3: Ch 3 (counts as FPDC), [Back Post Double Crochet into the Front Post Double Crochet from previous row, Front Post Double Crochet into the Back Post Double Crochet from previous row] until eor.
Therefore you will be alternating FPDC and BPDC from row to row, creating a ribbed effect.
Sl st to 1st ch 3 to close off round.
4-5: repeat rows 2 and 3.
Fasten off, tidy up all loose ends.